Last night was the Hollywood Foreign Press Association's 74th annual Golden Globe Awards in Los Angeles, hosted by the cast and crew of La La Land. As with every awards show, this year brought its share of triumphant speeches and red-carpet gaffes (and adorable children!!!)—and as much as we'd love to talk about all of that, there are very important makeup looks to dissect. Specifically: 2016's breakout actress Ruth Negga, nominated for Loving well throughout the season, and her pared-down purple smoky eye that toes the line between daytime and nighttime. ITG hopped on a call with Mélanie Inglessis, who gave the full download:

Mélanie: "We always start with the dress—she's wearing an amazing couture Louis Vuitton gown. We did the second fitting with stylist Karla Welch and then we started to collaborate on the makeup. It's a lot of dress—we didn't need to make a statement with the makeup. Her skin should be luminous and it needs to breathe, with a beautiful brow and a soft smoky eye. Very gamine.

Skin prep is as important as makeup—I think we need to emphasize good skin. We prepped with Chanel Le Lift Eye Revitalizer, Micro Serum, and Nourishing Lip Care. I wanted her to be moisturized, but not overly moisturized, so we left it on for about 20 minutes and then we started in with makeup. I don't like full foundation, so I did a little trick—I polished Sublimage Le Teint in 50 into the skin from the middle outward, and then I put Perfection Lumière Velvet over that for more matte coverage. Luminous, but breathable. She has freckles and I wanted those to show through. The lips are nude with a pop—Crayon de Couleur in Nude all over with the berry liquid Luxuriant in the middle, and I had her blot.

I'm a smoky eye kind of girl, but with Ruth, I realized that doesn't really suit her. So we just kept it above the eye, starting with Illusion d'Ombre cream eyeshadow in New Moon on the lid, and the dark purple Le Crayon Khôl on the top lash line, winged out a little. Then, with the burgundy shade of the Quadra Eyeshadow in Tissé Cambon, I did a wash of eyeshadow from the corner of the eye into the crease. It's different than your gold/brown smoky eye—I wanted an eye look in a different color palette that was complimentary to the dress. [cheering on the other end of the line] Oh, look, you can see her on TV now! She looks phenomenal."

As for the hair... a much softer, touseled take on finger waves, achieved at the hand (finger?) of Vernon Francis. Low-heat blow dry, his Re-Vamp Moisture Spray, and a little Co-Wash to hold it down. Nothing you can't do at home, thankfully.

Photos via Mélanie Inglessis and Getty.

#Tb: Peep Kirsten Dunst's whole getting ready routine for the Golden Globes last year, exclusively on ITG.