About a year ago, we did a story with known supermodel Anja Rubik on how to style and restyle your hair over and over again for a week without washing it. A great time-saving tip for sure—if you've got the hair type for it. With all due respect to Anja (really, we love you, call us), some people just can't live off of dry shampoo and good intentions all the way from Sunday to Sunday. But that's OK. There's even another model (this time, it's Toni Garrn) in the mix making a very convincing case to do just the opposite: Wash your hair, all the time, and do it right.
"I always think less is more," she said, in regards to how much product she puts in her hair. "I don’t really do any sprays or masks. I usually think that my hair looks and feels best with less in it."
A great approach! Dirty hair isn't the only way to go. But maybe your conscience doesn't allow you to take advice solely from a genetically-blessed human like Toni. (The thinking being, her hair would probably look great no matter what she does to it.) We get that, and so does Braydon Nelson, hairstylist to Toni, Doutzen Kroes, Anderson Cooper, and a bunch of other people on your hair inspo Pinterest board. He went more into detail:
"We never talk about clean hair anymore, but I think it's moving in that direction," he says about recent trends in hairstyling. "A big part of the reason dirty hair got such traction was that so many shampoos don't treat hair well enough. Using a basic shampoo is a bit like not using a filter for your coffee machine every day—what happens to the machine? It gets buildup. So regular shampoo with sulfates and unbalanced pH actually leaves the hair with more buildup than you started with." And another thing: Shampoo isn't really for your hair; it's for your scalp. "You have to wash the scalp so that the hair can keep growing healthy and without buildup," Braydon says. "Your hair gets clean in the process."
Don't blame your hair, blame your shampoo! Which is actually great, because you can always get new shampoo. Braydon stressed to look for one with a balanced pH and no surfactants—on Toni, he used the new Kérastase Aura Botanica Shampoo. (Full disclosure, Toni is the face/hair of the just-launched, natural-origin collection because she is so adamant about no sulfates, silicones, or parabens in her own products.) And don't stop there. Conditioner is as vital to washing your hair as moisturizer is to cleaning your face. Also using the Aura Botanica line, Braydon says reach for something that's got a nice slip to it, but isn't so hydrating that it'll leave you hair with a gummy residue. Like Toni said: Now's not the time for a hair mask.
For supremely clean hair that also looks "done," Toni uses a bit of serum before a blowdry (always a boar bristle brush—never metal or plastic so you don't heat the hair too much). She also keeps an oil spray around for "cowlicks"—or flyaways, that works too. So, not necessarily more products, or fewer products, just the right products. It's not revolutionary, but that doesn't make it any less smart.
Toni Garrn photographed by Tom Newton. Hair by Braydon Nelson (Julian Watson). Toni is wearing a Reformation dress.
Or, if dirty hair is more your think, Anja Rubik has you covered. Here's how to avoid winter breakage, too.