Introducing The Spring Smoky Eye

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Every spring, it seems like the beautysphere leaves its vampy, layered makeup behind (along with its Sorel boots and blizzard boyfriends), takes a deep breath, and exhales sunscreen and pink lipstick until September. Please expect no directional makeup looks here—but if you'd like, here are 94 Peachy Bronzers For The Perfect Summer-Ready Complexion.

But a smoky eye for spring is not as oxymoronic as it may seem. While the Earth is busy renewing itself after wintertime, why not refresh the look, for spring’s sake? The key is to switch out your Holiday Edition quads for the equally dramatic, but more seasonally appropriate colorways. Or so says makeup artist Benjamin Puckey—not that we disagree. (For evidence of his ability to pull it off, please see Exhibits A, B, and C.) Also invited: Olivia Jansing, who you might recognize from Benjamin's latest Beauty Papers spread. Two days and 20-odd eyeshadow palettes later, we’ve got four decidedly warm, seasonal smoky eyes for your recreative pleasure:

#1: Black
“A really dark eye can look fresh when you pair it with something shimmery,” said Benjamin. But as dark as this look may seem, the concept here is more VS Angel and less Taylor Momsen. The MVP is Troy Surratt’s Prismatique Eyeshadow in Scandal Eyes, with a cream base and an accompanying opalescent shadow for that easy, dimensional layer. Some MAC Extended Play Mascara in Gigablack (used throughout) plus a few swipes of Glossier Generation G Sheer Matte Lipstick in Cake kept the whole face looking cool, but still finished.
Olivia wears a jacket and jeans by Citizens of Humanity and a top by Ann Taylor.

#2: Green
“Kiko Milano has the best shimmery green eyeshadows, and it’s hard to find good greens.”—Benjamin layered two Kiko Milano Water Eyeshadows, in Emerald Green and Dark Slate Green, using Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee as a base for better adherence. (The combination also makes this makeup ideal for brown eyes.) Plus! A lower-key cheek and lip, achieved here with Chanel Harmony Blush and Nars Lip Gloss in the dusty apricot Instant Crash.
Olivia wears a top by Ann Taylor and earrings by Erica Weiner.

#3: Blue (and a lip!)
Or, forget that and go all out. Start with Lancôme kohl as a base again, this time in Black, and dive into Dior’s 5 Couleurs Palette in Carré Bleu. Here, Benjamin worked on a gradient, applying the lighter, teal shade to the inner corner of the eye and across the lid, and then picking up where it left off with a richer navy. On the lips, it’s the (new new) Tom Ford Patent Finish Lip Color in Exposed, which was fingerpainted on for a flushed and glossed finish.
Olivia wears earrings by Coach.

#4: Red
“I like these kinds of shades for the eyes because they feel modern right now and they're nice alternative to black. Also, eggplant works well with every eye color.” For this particular shade of eggplant, Benjamin used the cream color Aubergenious from MAC’s Forthcoming F/W 2016 Palette. There's something about red eye makeup that skews sophisticated, so the best accessory here is light mascara and slicked-back hair. And a little Urban Decay Beached Bronzer, for that almost-summer glow.
Olivia wears a sweater by Baldwin.

Olivia Jansing (Next) photographed by Tom Newton. Makeup by Benjamin Puckey. Hair by Rita Marmor (Streeters). Styling by Jen Steele.

Less smoky, just as spring-y: consider swapping in your bronzer for your eyeshadow right over here.