All hail the triumphant return of Alice Lane. The madcap, hyper-talented makeup artist is back with four looks (and almost endless insight) specially conceived to bring out the oceanic depths of blue eyes in all their beauty. If you missed out on the first installment, it’s worth a read. As always, these looks will look beautiful on any eye, because as Alice says, “If it’s a color in nature, it will work,” but nota bene to the blue-eyed set this time around.
We begin—as any worthy endeavor does—with whisky. Alice recalls a late-last-summer moment of inspiration: “I was in a bar and was looking at the color of whisky in the glass, and I was like, ���One day I would love to make [an eye] look this color because it’s so beautiful.' So I made it with this”—she motioned over to the Nars Multiple in South Beach and Topshop Cheek Jelly in Phenomenon—“and it was amazing. I put South Beach underneath as a good base, because it’s nice and creamy.” Then Alice dabbed a little Cheek Jelly over the Nars: “Look how nice this is on top—it’s glossy, but it’s not a shimmer. The color [is] between apricot and whisky. Which works perfectly with blue.” To top it all off, Alice swiped on Marc Jacobs Beauty O!Mega Lash Volumizing Mascara in Blacquer 30 and Glossier Balm Dotcom for a little set and shine, explaining “the creaminess of it makes her look kind of magical. Blue-eyed people have this kind of fairy-ness, so it brings that out.”
Numero dos: a dreamy sky-meets-sea wash of blue. Alice kept the lid itself bare and brushed on the blue pigment from Topshop’s Smokey Eye Palette in Atlantis everywhere but the top lid—so, just below the eye and all around the brow bone. It’s not about structure so much as it is about a cool wash of color—like if David Bowie had a stint as a mermaid. Alice lamented that sometimes girls shy away from blue. “There is no ‘wrong,’ you know? That doesn’t exist,” she said. “If it goes wrong, you just wipe it up.” On lips, Alice used a MAC Lip Pencil in Vino, smudged around and warmed up in the skin before applying on the lips—something deep to balance and set off the bright aquamarine.
For the third look, Alice switched gears completely. If the previous two felt tropical, this one's a little more cosmopolitan. “It was Belle Du Jour, like a Catherine Deneuve classic blonde—she looks really expensive and chic. I like it because it’s not too heavy or fussy.” The idea is warm neutrals that glide on seamlessly. She used four of the suede-like Burberry Eye Colour Wet and Dry Silk Shadows— Stone, Almond (a lynchpin warm neutral tan), Tea Rose, and Mulberry. Then she swiped on Charlotte Tilbury’s Rock ‘n’ Kohl Iconic Liquid Eye Pencil in Eye Cheat, a light peach shade, on the waterline to make the model’s eyes big and bright. Alice then brushed on a little Tom Ford Illuminating Highlight Pen in Citrine around the under-eye area and blended it into the line of eyeshadow for a seamless, perfect transition. A little Charlotte Tilbury Cheek To Chic Swish and Pop Blusher in First Love on the cheeks to round out the romantic bent. It’s fresh, polished, and modern—more like Belle Du 2015.
Fourth, final look: Margot Tenenbaum with an edge—an intellectual, almost melancholy take that’s all about dichotomy. “Margot is so nerdy, but she’s got that tough eyeliner,” Alice said. Taking on the challenge, she lined the model’s eyes with Charlotte Tilbury Colour Chameleon in Black Diamonds, which is specially formulated for blue eyes. It’s a dusky graphite with a blue cast that Alice accented with the very black Charlotte Tilbury Rock 'n' Kohl Iconic Liquid Eye Pencil in Bedroom Black on the waterline. The nude mouth came courtesy of Marc Jacobs New Nudes Sheer Lip Gel in Anais and the points of light and creamy apricot highlights were all down (again) to the Tom Ford pen. Alice made double use of that Topshop Cheek Jelly (previously of the 'Whisky Look') by blushing and contouring up the model’s cheek. Alice was pleased she nailed the Margot influence, and, upon reflection, added, “Very sort of Saint Laurent as well, this look.” So it’s good either way.
Anne Peck (Major Models) photographed by Tom Newton.