Back in July, Burberry held a little get-together over breakfast in their towering New York HQ (imagine a Burberry flagship, but turned into an office building—and everyone, as you would expect, wears Burberry). Wendy Rowe—the makeup-artistic consultant and creative genius responsible for why Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne, and Sienna Miller always look so cool—was there, previewing the fall lineup of products. There was the standby Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base, obviously, plus the addition of a Face Contour Pen(!!). It's been hard to keep mum about it for this long, but it's fall now (and they just launched the products in Sephora, too)...perfect time for a trench coat and some new makeup. And who better to instruct than Wendy herself? Below are three looks (we couldn't stop at just one).
'When we make products, we think, what can women walk away from the counter with and not think 'I can't do this. I've got this stuff and it's useless because I'm not a makeup artist.' It’s not about me showing off, it’s about brand awareness and making it easy for the individual. That’s what I think people want. I always think there are no rules in makeup.”
The Autumn/Winter 2015 Look
'The full makeup look for the show was inspired by Christopher [Bailey's] theme 'Patchwork, Pattern and Prints,' so we used a lot of new textures and wearable colors all together. I always start with the eyes—that way, when you have particles fall down, you can clean the skin before you do the rest of the makeup. I actually sculpt the eye socket here with the new Face Contour Pen—I'm so excited about this product. I helped Burberry develop it five years ago, so it's been a five year process of getting it right. And I've been using it on people for years and they're always like 'What is that?' It can be used as a face shaper, but here we use it to follow the crease in the eye socket and then blend it out with a dry brush. Then I apply it to the bottom lash line, a little bit lighter towards the inner corner, making sure you link this in to the upper corner.
At the show, I gave the eyes further definition with an Effortless Kohl Eyeliner in Storm Green No. 06. It's waterproof, long-lasting in the waterline and it gives the look a slightly darker edge. I'll set that with a little charcoal powder and use some of the Bold Lash Mascara in Ebony No. 01.
On to skin—I apply a couple of squirts of the Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base in Golden Radiance No. 02 to my hand and use it like I would a moisturizer, wiping it across the face and taking it down the neck. Then I take my Face Contour Pen again and apply it just under the cheekbone to help define and give the illusion of a slimmer face. To highlight, I use the Burberry Sheer Concealer in a paler shade on the face, the middle of the forehead, down the centre of the nose, on Cupid's bow, and the chin. Finally we're going to add a layer of Fresh Glow Foundation...this evens out the skin tone but it's still super lightweight so you don't feel like you've got anything on too heavy.
For the lips, we're using Burberry Kisses Lipstick in Nude Beige No. 01—a truly buildable lipstick. Christopher wanted to create a nude finish but still allow the natural tone of the lip to shine through. That's really what the whole look is about.”
The Burberry Smokey Eye
'A smokey eye is very Burberry. But the thing about a modern take on it is that it should not be dark all over the eyelid. So first, I press the Wet & Dry Glow Shadow in Nude No.002 onto the middle of the eyelid to create a feeling of brightness. Then we sweep the Wet & Dry Silk Shadow in Rosewood No.202 across the eye and the socket line. It has a taupey-pink color to it, which intensifies the natural shadow of the eye.
Then I go in with a soft kohl—it’s called the Effortless Blendable Kohl in Jet Black No.01. Dot it along the lash line, it doesn’t need to be perfect, just gently push it into the lashes. Kohl pencils are quite soft so you can easily blend them, so I am just going to set the liner with the shadow in Jet Black No.308. The Kohl is actually waterproof, so it's good in the waterline, too—I like to make sure there are no gaps between the waterline and the lashline. Next, I’m going to take a clean brush and blend into the lash line and then smoke it away, so there is no hard line. Then extend the line out, slightly beyond the lash line. Do the same thing underneath on the bottom lashline, too.
For girls with smaller eyes wanting to do a smokey look, I would just concentrate it more to the outside of the eye. You can bring it underneath and down and up to give it that feline kind of feel because you want to create your eye slightly bigger, but if it’s quite small then it’s normally quite close to the nose, so you want to keep that a bit more open and work more on the outside. Everything is achievable, you just adapt it slightly.”
The Nude Glow
'Whatever I do, I always start with Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base. It comes in two shades; Nude Radiance No.01 and Golden Radiance No.02. The formula is 55 percent water, so it hydrates while mirror pearls illuminate without any shimmering effect. Then there's our new Fresh Glow Foundation and Cashmere Concealer. They are so comfortable to wear, I compare them to wrapping yourself in a huge cashmere scarf.
Most people don’t need to apply foundation all over their face—it looks much lighter and more natural and glowing if you apply only where you need it. This is usually around the chin, nose and forehead. For the eyes, I mix a little bit of Wet & Dry Silk Shadow in Pale Barley No. 102 with Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base, and I apply it all over the eyelid. As you see, it naturally highlights the eyes and makes them look brighter.
You can use the cream contour here, but we have a Light Glow Blush in Earthy No. 07 that I use as a contour sometimes—it’s very, very light, but I think that’s more sophisticated. A lot of these contours at the moment are very dark or very orange-y, which is not natural. When you look at the Earthy blush it looks a little bit grey, but it’s actually what shadow would look like on the skin. It just creates that natural shadow that you would get in daylight. What you actually see when you look at someone is a natural shadow: You have a shadow under the eye because the eyelashes create that shadow, you just have to enhance it a little bit. You’re just enhancing the bone structure, so you can cheat things a little bit. [Laughs]'
—as told to ITG