Anthony Turner (L'Oreal Professional): “So this collection is a collaboration between David Lynch and [designers] Humberto and Carol. It feels a little bit Twin Peaks-y, so we wanted to do something with the hair that felt very classic. We’re kind of referencing the ‘90s, and whenever I reference the ‘90s I think of a ponytail. And we wanted the hair to be away—it couldn’t be down because of the proportions of the clothes. But how do you do a ponytail but make it David Lynch-y? What can you do to have it feel a little odd? For us, that meant doing this really strong center part with the ponytail attached in the middle at the back of the head—really severe. And then wrapping hair extensions around the ponytail. The oddness comes in with the fact that we’re chopping the ponytail really blunt at the bottom. I don’t see girls with that kind of severe blunt hair anymore; it’s all layered and kind of piecey. This season is all straight and blunt with a kind of rebellion against layers. It’s very finished, there’s a polish, a richness. The Kenzo designers are very known for their downtown girl, but this time we’re bringing her uptown. She’s a bit more finished. It’s a rebellion against the grunge thing that we’ve seen over the past few seasons.”
Aaron de Mey (MAC): “We’re making a statement about David Lynch, since he’s the inspiration, and he did the set and the music. So I’m referencing Blue Velvet, because that’s one of my favorites. Humberto wanted the models to look really cinematic, but super young. And the set's really, really dark, so I’m trying to keep the kids looking cool, and refreshed, but also a little awkward. So I’m doing an arched eyebrow to give the look some strength, and then I’m giving them an electric blue gel liner. I’m making it really pointy, and really graphic. Then everything else is really easy—dewy skin and a beige lip. No blush, because I want everything to be about the eyes. I think blush looks too innocent—it takes things into a different world and I wanted them to look a bit cold. And I love how they look very creamy and the only color is the electric blue. It is MAC Chromaline, which is genius—the color's Marine Ultra. I love it because it reminds me of Yves Klein blue.”
Xiao Wen Ju photographed by Emily Weiss backstage at Kenzo Fall 2014 in Paris, France on March 2, 2013.