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Derek Lam Spring 2014

Derek Lam
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Tom Pecheux (Estée Lauder): “The key word for Derek’s collection was 'minimalism.' I was looking at his amazing evening dresses, which are everything I love—extremely sophisticated, but casual in a very American way—and I thought of my classic references, like [the 1969 film] La Piscine, Romy Schneider, and the mood of dreamy places with gorgeous faces, like the South of France, Bali, Capri, and Santa Fe. I just came back from Marfa, Texas where I saw Donald Judd’s work and was totally inspired by the cube, because it’s so simple yet very powerful. So, like a cat eye, we put the cube on the outer corner of the girls’ eyes, using an Estée Lauder eye pencil to outline the shape and then, with a square brush, filling it in with a cream shadow. You want to 'tilt' the shape, but not too much, to keep it graphic and contemporary, and to avoid being retro. We didn’t use mascara to, again, keep it very minimal. For the rest of the face, we were looking at texture, like Derek is. He always starts designing with the quality of material, so we went for no-makeup makeup with beautiful texture. The skin is very creamy, and we put a nude, slightly glossy color on the lids to make them look ‘humid.’ For me, this is a great look that a woman could build during the day, rather than just adding a lip for night. You can wake up, go to work, and, without having to go home and change, add this eye and go out for dinner, drinks, and who knows what afterward.”

Photographed by Emily Weiss at the Sean Kelly Gallery in New York on September 8, 2014.

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