Every once in a while during fashion week, something so spectacular happens backstage in makeup or hair that we can actually feel the paradigm shift. Raf Simons has been churning out moments like these since his 2012 debut at Christian Dior (with the help of one Pat McGrath). Last season’s French-kissed lips had us artfully smudging out our lipstick on our way back from the show. Spring 2013’s bedazzled eyes and lips made us get very comfortable with the idea of upping the wattage of our makeup. But this season’s look — spookily subtle gold brocade brows and metallic eyes —was the best yet. These are eyebrows as jewelry , jewelry that costs nearly nothing to replicate, yet commanded about as much attention as the clothes (which will surely cost more than nothing). Sure, you could try to get yourself yourself on the wait list for a Céline choker, but, if not, why not just brocade your brows? Clearly, elegance isn't always expensive. Explained Ms. McGrath:
Pat McGrath : “These eyebrows are like jewelry. Working with the natural brow shapes, we applied glue, gold pigment, and gold glitter in many layers to create a brocade texture. It’s a real build. To get it right, we just painted on the pigment and wiped it away. We were really having fun. The glue was used to ensure that the gold stayed for the full show. And we decided on gold because it feels both organic and futuristic.
Some girls have just the brows, some girls have both a gold eye and a gold brow, and some girls have just the eyes. For the eyes, we painted on the pigment, and added a flash of pastel with blue, green, or yellow eyeliner very close to the lash. We finished them with brown mascara.
There's lip balm on the lips, and we warmed the models' faces with rose blush, leaving the skin very natural and transparent. The girls with absolutely no eyes were slightly highlighted with Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream.”
Photographed by Emily Weiss at the Musée Rodin in Paris on September 27, 2013.