Tom Pecheux (Estée Lauder): Derek was looking at a lot of West Coast interior design with this collection. He told me, “You know how sometimes you walk into houses and they look too precious, there's too much going on, you feel a bit stiff, like you don't know where to sit or how to act or what to do... and then there's some homes where you feel casual, you just want to throw yourself on the sofa and have a nice glass of something?” So, I wanted to create a makeup that was based on what I love about Derek; I wanted it to be very casual, but very effortless. No striking lines, nothing aggressive, just like Derek's collection. So, it's satin-finished skin with just a ray of light in the middle of the eyelid—it depends on the skin tone and texture, but I'm using three different shadows (Sterling Plums, Steel Lilacs, Smoked Chrome)... It looks like a nude grey color on the eyelid, but under the light it's going to look much more intense. It's not sparkly—I'm afraid of sparkle!—but here's the trick: use your finger. If you use a fluffy brush you're going to create a lot of flaking under your eyes, but if you use your finger, it doesn't fall.
For the lip, I mixed three products: a bit of gloss, dabbing with a pretty strong stain right in the center of the lip, and then right in the center of that , a touch of black Shadow Paint. They all work together: it's a black and brown and burgundy lip; it's a little '90s. To apply it, you use your finger again... It's sexy to dab on lipstick with your finger. It's much better to dab it, the heat of your lips and the heat of your finger helps the texture, it just melts in. I don't know, there's certain things that you use a brush for, but for me, makeup is so sensual. And that's why you put makeup on, to make you feel beautiful and sensual and to please yourself and to please the people who are going to look at you... You need to bring some sensuality, bring some skin-to-skin. It's like when you are spooning with your lover. I love touch, I love sensuality. It's like a relationship: it can be intense, but it doesn't mean you have to stay away from loving or cuddling, For me, makeup is that, too—it's cuddling your skin, it's being nice to yourself. That's why massaging your face before you apply makeup matters so much. If you give love to yourself I think you're going to feel good.
Orlando Pita (Phyto): The look of the collection is called “Bohemian Minimalism,” and so we're doing these 8-10 braids all around the head to give texture: I wouldn’t say it's 'crimping.' This is more like if a girl had a naturally wavy, frizzy texture. It’s not frizzy, though; it’s soft, it’s romantic, it has flyaways, but not frizzy-frizzy. There's a very precise, defined shape to the hair. Do to this, we treat the hair with the Phytovolume Actif Volumizer Spray and blow dry it with a T3 Featherweight Luxe Dryer. Then we brush it through, braid it, go over the braids with a flat iron, spray Phyto Professional Workable Holding Spray after it cools, and undo the braids and brush it all out. Finally, we part it in the middle and pin behind the ears—and a little frizz is fine, yeah.
Photographed by Emily Weiss at the Sean Kelly Gallery in New York on February 10th, 2013.