The fresh-faced Stella McCartney girl has been mixing it up lately. Sure, bare, glowing faces—and we’re talking clean, often with only a dab of concealer—have been the designer’s request for her models season after season, but for the fall show back in March, girls sashayed down the runway with a surprising add-on: lashes coated in a striking cobalt blue paint, courtesy of Pat McGrath.
For her resort presentation, staged at a church in the East Village, McCartney was in a playful mood again. To complement the “really rich jacquards, poppy colors, and little elements of fluoro,” in the texture-heavy, interiors-inspired collection, the designer suggested that makeup artist Jeanine Lobell work in a little black eye pencil, but in an unexpected way. “We’re doing a straight-ish line under the eye—into a point, but not extended,” Lobell explained. “It’s short; it’s a little tougher. And, it makes the eye wider…if you do the line straight and don’t follow the roundness of your eye, it opens the eye up.” With Sunday Riley’s Pitch Black Velvet Gel eyeliner in one hand and a pointy cotton swab in the other (“They’re your friend, because you can kind of erase the liner into a shape you like,”), Lobell smudged Norwegian model Siri Tollerød’s liner into submission while the two chatted away in Swedish. Hopping up from the makeup chair after a quick coat of Riley’s Obsidian mascara—top lashes only—Tollerød slipped into her outfit to join the other girls for first looks, but popped outside with me for a few shots first. And her lemon blazer, spiked with lurex and perfectly fitted, was a true standout in the collection. “I love a jacket,” McCartney told me. “I trained at Savile Row in London, with a very historical way of looking at men’s tailoring, but as much as I love the way a men’s jacket looks, and the attitude it brings, for me it’s deeply rooted in psychology—that, in every woman, there is an element of male, and I think that’s really sexy.” Tollerød, buttoned up in the overcast courtyard, evoked a modern Mick Jagger, and embodied, as Lobell said, “that cool girl who has that one thing that she does with her makeup…that one little element that makes a face more individualized.”
Siri Tollerød photographed by Emily Weiss at The Church of Saint Theresa Nativity in New York City, June 11th 2012.