Rochas Fall 2011

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Eugene Souleiman: Well, I walked into the fitting and looked at the reference pictures for hair, and there was a picture from a Jil Sander campaign I did in the 90’s with Guinevere van Seenus—one of the first campaigns I’d ever done. Marco [Zanini] was talking to me about how he wanted to ‘redefine the word chic,’ and how he wanted to strip everything away to make something feel purer and more elegant. Normally now people think ‘chic’ means something expensive and really ostentatious, which he found really vulgar to look at. So we created an almost ‘handsome’ woman—a woman who’s so beautiful that she almost doesn’t need anything. We did a sort of manly side part and pulled the hair away from the face…it’s got a kind of GQ feeling to it, a little early 90’s. We’re combining a chignon with an injection of masculinity. Normally when you see hair up, it’s rounder and more feminine, lady-like. This is more square: there’s a regimentation to it but it’s not aggressive.

Lucia Pieroni: It’s very much about simplicity and a beautiful face—it’s very classic but it’s also slightly 90’s. There’s not much makeup: a little bit of shading on the eye, finished with gloss, a peach lip. It’s sort of about raw skin in a sense. I’m giving them a mini-facial before I start, with Shiseido Benefiance fluid—it gives a wonderful glow to your skin. And then I’m using Clé de Peau Defining Fluid Foundation—it’s super light and luminous. The eye is all about light and shade: I’m starting with a taupe-y cream eye shadow and finishing it with MAC lipgloss. Eyebrows are boyish and quite straight—I like using powder to fill them in; MAC eye shadows are the best for that.