Oh, Marc. The city's biggest designer closed out NYFW last night with a dimly lit, glam-heavy—sequins and fur and cashmere, oh my!— extravaganza that was heavy on the attitude and, beauty-wise, light on color (i.e., monochrome, or “like a black-and-white photograph,” according to François Nars). Guido used a razor to hand-shape 55 different wigs in varying shades of brown (12 were light, 43 were dark) purchased from Helena’s (the very place James Pecis told us was the mecca of faux-hair) to create a chicly mulleted clone-army of cool girls — the kind, Guido noted backstage, “that Marc [Jacobs] likes... the inspiration was a lot of girls in the '90s; an English girl called Edie Campbell,” as well as a 2000 Vogue Italia photoshoot with Kim Peers. Palau spritzed water and sprayed Emily's beloved shine flash from Redken to give the wigs extra height and an almost sweaty sheen. It was grungy, choppy, rock ‘n roll—a far cry from the slicked-back chignons or tight ponytails we’ve been seeing everywhere else this season.
On his usual makeup duty, Nars explained: “The girl is a bit of a mix between Marianne Faithful and Joan Jett...I think Marc is always attracted to a certain type of girl — they’re always a little bit edgy, a cool girl, very underground, always a touch of rock, you know, a little bit rock ‘n roll. It’s a black-lined smoky eye with a strong eyebrow, almost like a natural eyebrow, but more defined. The skin is very matte; we just used concealer and powder and our Zen and Nico blushes. No shine. Then, we used a black liner [the Black Moon pencil] and a white pencil [Santa Monica Blvd. Larger Than Life Long Wear Eyeliner] inside the inner eye— the white makes the eyes look bigger and more open, which is a nice little touch. Then, a bit of the Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara.” [Ed. note: Maybe we don't have to ditch the mascara after all.]
That's it? “At the last minute we’re going to add a touch of grease with the fingers,” Nars said. “Just to make it look like the girls were out all night and are a little sweaty, maybe. So, we make the makeup perfect and then at the end, we’ll destroy it a little bit by adding some grease.” Good to know that cool girls get a little dirty, too.
Photographed by Emily Weiss at the Lexington Avenue Armory in New York on February 14th, 2013.