The Graphic Navy Eye

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One of the best makeup looks from the recent fall/winter 2013 collections was surely the opulent glitter-encrusted blue eye that Diane Kendal created for Thakoon. Of course, both of those elements—blue and glitter—can go so totally wrong, but still, it was a runway moment we couldn't wait to tackle on our own. And we figured out the exact recipe during our playdate with Self Service, way back at the beginning of Paris Fashion Week.

The takeaway (after working out the look with the lovely Loulou!): top lid only, drop the glitter, and make it matte. Matte and opaque. Think Sharpie.

Start by building a graphic shape across the lid with a flat synthetic brush (Sephora Classic Concealer Brush) and Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream in Intense Blue. Play! There is no “right' or “wrong' shape. We like it sort of flat across the crease, coming up into a point past the inner and outer corners. Fill in the shape with the cream. And here's a tip: if, in the end, it doesn't match, or you want to tweak the shape, go the reductionist route—use a Créaline-soaked cotton swab as an eraser. Then, use a dense eye shadow brush (Sephora Pro Shader Brush #18) and NARS Outremer Single Shadow on top. Take your time and build up the opacity, switching back and forth between both eyes. Skip the mascara, brush up those brows, powder your T-Zone, swipe on some lip balm, and you're good to go...almost anywhere. I mean, Loulou kills it in a t-shirt. But that's also because she's Loulou.

Loulou Robert photographed by Ezra Petronio in Paris on February 26th, 2013. Makeup by Emily Weiss. Part 3 of an ITG series with Self Service.