Another day, another tutorial. Since transforming into anything associated with Anjelica Huston isn't (and shouldn't be) remotely low maintenance, creating Morticia took a village:
Thom Walker, makeup : “I'm very taken with Anjelica Huston as Morticia Addams—the ultimate combination of class, grace, and sexuality. And who doesn't have a wardrobe filled with black lace that they are searching for an excuse to wear?
I started the process by cleansing the skin using the RMK Cleansing Balm to leave a glowing, plump complexion. Then, after making sure the area was completely dry, I applied the face tape to give the optimum illusion of a tightened, frozen face. To work out where to place the tape, you just lift the skin around the brow area up and out, and then you just stick down the tape and attach its elastic. Don't be afraid to pull tight—you can go further than you think! Once in place, I applied a little Madina Crystal Glass Powder over the top of the tape to keep it matte.
To moisturize, I used Suqqu Bounce Barrier Cream, which improves skin texture and is the perfect base for the white paint. Then, I applied MAC Paintstick in Pure White directly to the skin, starting at the center of the face and working outward and using a buffing brush to blend evenly. I finished up by applying MAC Set Powder in Porcelain White. This helps it both last and look fabulously matte in a picture.
To give a more modern look to the skin and some definition to the angles, we highlighted the 'high blades'—center of the nose, cheekbones, inner corners of the eye and the cupid's bow—using MAC Pressed Pigment, which has a pearlescent finish.
I wanted the eyes to feel quite haunting, while staying super sultry. First, I applied MAC Cream Color Base in Breaking Ground to the lid and into the crease. Then, I blended Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow in Grey into the corner of the eye and softly into the crease. To soften the edges, I used Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Powder in Medium, which I then ringed under the lower lashline to make it all look gaunt and spooky.
I lined the waterline using Chanel Crayon Kôhl Pencil in Noir and Dior Addict It-Line liquid eyeliner, with a slight upward flick. Then I added Eylure 190 false lashes to the top lashline. Finally, I applied a layer of Charlotte Tilbury's killer mascara, Full Fat Lashes, in Glossy Black. For the brows, I used Tom Ford Brow Sculptor in Taupe, focusing on the arch. Then, I set it with Diorshow Maximizer Lash Plumping Serum—I'm completely obsessed with using the two together as a set.
Then, as Kate sucked in her cheekbones, I applied more of the Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Powder with the Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate Brush to the hollows, working the brush from the base of the bone and into the ears and hairline. I wanted a strong and severe yet blended contour, so I also used Charlotte Tilbury’s Film Star Bronze and Glow Face Sculpt and Highlight to capture light and add further definition, using the highlighter just above the contour, on the jawline, and along the forehead. Morticia is all about those angles…
Finally, I lined the lips using MAC Lip Pencil in Redd. I wanted to keep the shape wide and vampy, so I overdrew the top lip and widened the bow. Then, using Laura Mercier Satin Lip Color in Currant, I pushed the lipstick into the lips straight from the tube—you want it definite, pronounced, and dramatic. We finished off by painting her false nails in MAC Flaming Rose. Perfection, Anjelica-style.”
Cyndia Harvey, hair : “For the hair, I got a lace-front wig—they are worth the investment—and used Babyliss medium-width Curling Iron to get a curl running through it, before brushing it all out. We got a '30s-style wave like the original Morticia—and, by curling the front sections of the hair upwards and backwards, we achieved her trademark double-cowlick. Finally, I coated it all in Bumble and bumble Shine On Finishing Spray for a super-glossy finish.”
—as told to ITG
Kate Iorga in Agent Provocateur, photographed by Liam Warwick. Makeup by Thom Walker, assisted by Lo Moorcroft and Carly Hart. Hair by Cyndia Harvey (Streeters). Nails by Ama Quashie (CLM). Interview by Olivia J. Singer.