History Lesson: The Scent of Fracas - Into The Gloss

History Lesson: The Scent of Fracas

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"Every single person making a tuberose fragrance is trying to knock off the classic, which is Fracas"—Frederic Malle

Fracas is sort of the Anti No. 5, a sneakily iconic invention—the bad girl of the "classic fragrance" category, the Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele in a room full of stodgy editors.

Courtney Love adores it, Madonna based her fragrance Truth or Dare off of it, and it makes Martha Stewart absolutely giddy. Seriously, when Fracas comes up it’s like someone just handed the woman a basket full of show-quality Chow Chow puppies and white wine sangria. Ms. Stewart has never been wrong (we still have our FREE MARTHA t-shirts); Fracas is awesome and its story is almost as good as the smell. Interest piqued now, hmmmmm? Then read on, dear femme/homme/Directioner:

Fracas may have fashion designer Robert Piguet's name on the label, but it's actually the brainchild of one Ms. Germaine Cellier. Cellier was a known eccentric and perfumer, which meant hanging out with Jean Cocteau and doing interesting perfumer things such as stealing models' underwear so that she could "smell the best of their femininity" (we're sure in French it sounds more charming and less like a Thursday afternoon at Dov Charney's house). Piguet commissioned Cellier to create what would become Fracas in 1948, a time when women's fragrance design was a boys' club and her very existence was a novelty, if not an outright assault on 'good' taste.

Cellier had recently formulated Balmain Vent Vert and, for her next act, decided to do something based on the notoriously difficult, dirty tuberose. In the words of Roja Dove, "Tuberose is the most carnal of the floral notes. It smells like very, very hot flesh after you've had sex—that's the bottom line." The Forties were an era of animalic-based scents, when ingredients like civet, musk, and castoreum (a.k.a. beaver oil, which...c'mon ingredient namer people) were still normal base notes, so a perfume that made you smell like you'd just had a lost weekend was a good thing. Cellier paired her filthed-up floral with an enormous amount of orange blossom to cut the raunchyness a little, then added powdery iris and some jasmine.

Naming the fragrance 'fracas' (a word that means brawl or uproar) was just the icing on the grrrrrl power cake. Cellier even dedicated Fracas to Edwige Feuillère, an actress notorious for having appeared naked (!!) in the 1935 film Lucrece Borgia. Clearly, a hint of scandal was exactly what Cellier wanted in her perfume and in her marketing (Don Draper would totally have given her the slow clap... and maybe the regular clap, too). On shelves, it was an immediate success, swiftly becoming the scent of the 'New Look' dame: impeccably made-up, decadent, and a little dangerous. Unfortunately, all those rich and exciting ingredients would nearly drive Fracas to early extinction.

Most people aren't aware of this, but the perfume you're wearing today—even if it's No. 5 (especially if it's No. 5)—is likely not the same as it was 20 years ago. If you're a fan of long-lived legends like Shalimar or L'Heure Bleue, your signature scent has gone through many, many redesigns, as new synthetic notes become available and other ingredients either disappear or are banned. Many of the notes perfumers used 50 years ago are no longer legal, so the likelihood a recipe could stay the same is next to nil. And Cellier's scents have been especially vulnerable because she was a chemist by training and often used then-cutting-edge synthetic bases, which later on ceased to be produced.

For Fracas, this meant reformulate or die. And by the late Eighties, the sleek black bottle had all but disappeared. Perfume buffs still discussed it reverently, but, like many scents from the first half of the 20th century, it was fading into obscurity. An ill-conceived "new" version released in the mid-1990s nearly did it in for good. But Fracas would not go down like that! In 1998, a company purchased its license and revived the scent, tasking perfumer Pierre Negrin with recreating the original Fracas as accurately as possible. If Chandler Burr's review in the New York Times—and Courtney Love and co.—are any indication, the reworking was a major success.

The More You Know...

Photos by Mathea Millman.

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  • http://taliashulze.com/ Talia

    I want to smell it LIKENOW someone please invent internet smellovision.

    • llama

      yeah why isn't that a thing yet?? c'mon!

  • therealblonde

    My signature scent for the past 15 years!

  • katie

    Not sure who the writer was here, but this article is kind of hard to read... so many links, parenthetical comments, and sentences starting with "but" or "and". Sorry for being so snobby, but on a website of this caliber shoddier writing really stands out. :(

  • Katherine

    +1 this post. I found out about Fracas from my hippest friend in high school. I asked my mom to search for it for my birthday in multiple department stores. She asked, "Um, is this what you wanted?" as a salesperson emerged from the back with ONE // THE ONLY dust-covered black bottle. And I haven't looked back, or stopped purchasing it, since <3

  • Jessica

    So THAT'S how you pronounce "fracas!" I had no idea.

  • shuzluva

    An ex boyfriend bought me Fracas. Besides flagrantly cheating on me, he was a horrible person who liked to manipulate people. I can't wear the scent anymore because it makes me think of how I allowed the wool to be pulled over my eyes...

  • http://lerablogs.blogspot.com/ Lera

    I will def. try this one. I have "Visa", and I love it!

    • Natalie

      I love Visa. It's a gorgeous scent that not too many people know about. Fracas is too full on floral for me but it (like all the other Piguet scents) is exceptionally well done.

  • Charlotte

    I love these stories on fragrance! There is always a rich history behind each scent

  • Mia

    My bf says it smells like the toilets in Italy

  • beeswaxnoneofyour

    There have only ever been two tuberose scents I have ever been able to wear, and those wear the discontinued L'artisan Tubereuse, a super simple tuberose/coconut milk/ylang scent that was my sunny holiday scent, and Fracas. Fracas is total magic. It is so much more complex than just a tuberose scent. It's dirty, it's classy, it's mysterious.

  • http://thehorticult.com/ The Horticult

    Fracas is so great to wear in the winter. A sexy, under-the-sweater fragrance that smells like an angel's bicycle seat. I recently picked up a few tuberose stems from the farmer's market, and the scent has now filled our entire house.

  • Guest

    This is my all time favorite perfume. I have been wearing it for about 20 years now and I will continue to wear it until the day I die.

  • Clare

    My signature evening scent for over 15 years and holy grail. My husband won't let me wear it out unless I am with him. Says everything there is to know about this sexy scent!

  • http://awriterinlove.blogspot.com/ Danielle (A Writer in Love)

    Yep, I'm definitely intrigued! Going to look into snagging myself a bottle now :)

    Best,
    Danielle
    http://awriterinlove.blogspot.com

  • Anna Wynne-Williams

    i used to wear it until i started smelling it everywhere- i now wear carnal flower by frederic malle ( get the name?!)also a tuberose and fabulous. and heinously priced- people literally stop me in the street.... its a total tuberose with a touch of eucalyptus,which is fresh. why am i telling you this????!!

  • VNikol

    Fracas is my favorite fragrance, been wearing it for over 10 years now. Love!

  • michaelcynthia62

    There is literally no Tuberose / Gardenia scent that I have not tried. A number of weeks ago I was at Barney's in Chicago and tried ... Serge Lutens - Tuberose Criminelle. If you are in to an even heavier scent than Fracas, an even more unique, complex formula, then you will appreciate what Monsieur Lutens is offering. It is the top of Mt. Everest, for those who cannot have enough tuberoses and gardenias wafering through their lives.

  • Pendit 1

    So fabulous. Mmmmmmmm.....I love the way it makes me feel

PRODUCTS MENTIONED

Robert Piguet
Fracas Eau de Parfum
CHANEL
CHANEL No. 5 PARFUM
Balmain
Women's Balmain Vent Vert Eau de Toilette, 75mL
Guerlain-Shalimar
Shalimar Eau de Toilette
Guerlain
Guerlain l'Heure Bleue 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
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