Perfection is unnerving. In today’s game of full-body airbrushing, over-worked blowouts, and Spanx on Spanx, perfection has also become, at long last, kind of dull. There’s something implicitly contrived in looking too pretty every day, because no one is perfect, and more importantly, who has the time?
Between the wet hair and mascara-less looks at NYFW, designers and models alike are seemingly taking note of just how good, powerful, and disarming a girl can look when she’s left a little undone. And if we’re being really honest with ourselves, mascara never did us any favors in a wintry mix. Which is why we’re kind of losing it over this September’s Vogue Italia shoot, “The Edit,” in which models Sam Rollinson and Ashleigh Good take on the proverbial elements in tire-tread Prada heels, raw-edged Lanvin coats, bare skin, un-mascara-ed eyes, and statement lipstick on their teeth. Excuse them while they Instagram their look.
As the story's makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo will tell you (and told us), it’s all about editing, or rather, just as much about what you are wearing as what you leave off:
The Concept: “This is a stylish, young girl who uses beauty as accessory, but isn’t interested in the classic approach to beauty. I tried to edit myself only using products and color in a way that her character would use them, to keep it cool and young. I wanted the models to look real, so my first decision was to skip on foundation, powder, and concealer. We didn't contour or use blush, either.”
The Skin: “Because their skin was bare, I wanted it to have great texture. I cleaned their faces with Bioderma Créaline H2O, then massaged in Clarins Beauty Flash Balm—if you have problem skin, Clarins Lotus Face Treatment Oil or Cicalfate Restorative Cream are better.”
The Lips: “I started with a base of La Mer lip balm. For color, I applied Serge Lutens Pourpre Maure and Kiko Ivory Beige to their lips first with the tube, and then patted the color in with my finger, so it wasn't too ‘drawn on.’ I changed the color or removed it for each image.”
The Eyes: “I wrapped an Intense Blue eyeshadow by Make Up For Ever along top and bottom lashes. Using blue instead of the obvious black just felt right. I used a white pencil by Nars to line the inside bottom lid, and colored brow gel to groom their eyebrows. I left off the mascara, and when I felt eye makeup was not working for the picture, I left her eye bare."
Sam Rollinson and Ashleigh Good photographed by Craig McDean for Vogue Italia September 2013. Hair by Eugene Souleiman, makeup by Mark Carrasquillo and nails by Bernadette Thompson.