Imperfect Makeup - Into The Gloss

Imperfect Makeup


Perfection is unnerving. In today’s game of full-body airbrushing, over-worked blowouts, and Spanx on Spanx, perfection has also become, at long last, kind of dull. There’s something implicitly contrived in looking too pretty every day, because no one is perfect, and more importantly, who has the time?

Between the wet hair and mascara-less looks at NYFW, designers and models alike are seemingly taking note of just how good, powerful, and disarming a girl can look when she’s left a little undone. And if we’re being really honest with ourselves, mascara never did us any favors in a wintry mix. Which is why we’re kind of losing it over this September’s Vogue Italia shoot, “The Edit,” in which models Sam Rollinson and Ashleigh Good take on the proverbial elements in tire-tread Prada heels, raw-edged Lanvin coats, bare skin, un-mascara-ed eyes, and statement lipstick on their teeth. Excuse them while they Instagram their look.

As the story's makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo will tell you (and told us), it’s all about editing, or rather, just as much about what you are wearing as what you leave off:

The Concept: “This is a stylish, young girl who uses beauty as accessory, but isn’t interested in the classic approach to beauty. I tried to edit myself only using products and color in a way that her character would use them, to keep it cool and young. I wanted the models to look real, so my first decision was to skip on foundation, powder, and concealer. We didn't contour or use blush, either.”

The Skin: “Because their skin was bare, I wanted it to have great texture. I cleaned their faces with Bioderma Créaline H2O, then massaged in Clarins Beauty Flash Balm—if you have problem skin, Clarins Lotus Face Treatment Oil or Cicalfate Restorative Cream are better.”

The Lips: “I started with a base of La Mer lip balm. For color, I applied Serge Lutens Pourpre Maure and Kiko Ivory Beige to their lips first with the tube, and then patted the color in with my finger, so it wasn't too ‘drawn on.’ I changed the color or removed it for each image.”

The Eyes: “I wrapped an Intense Blue eyeshadow by Make Up For Ever along top and bottom lashes. Using blue instead of the obvious black just felt right. I used a white pencil by Nars to line the inside bottom lid, and colored brow gel to groom their eyebrows. I left off the mascara, and when I felt eye makeup was not working for the picture, I left her eye bare."

Sam Rollinson and Ashleigh Good photographed by Craig McDean for Vogue Italia (subscribe to see more!) September 2013. Hair by Eugene Souleiman, makeup by Mark Carrasquillo and nails by Bernadette Thompson.

Let’s Talk About It! JOIN IN
  • The Horticult

    That bewitching lilac-grey lip in #9 is just balm + Kiko Ivory Beige? I ask b/c it seems a lot different from the swatches I've seen of this shade. (For the past few years I've been obsessed w/ finding a color like this one in #9...!)

  • Paulette

    Touching on the note of imperfection, I am so glad to be seeing more models with.... Important noses. (One of my favorite euphemism from Italian). Between Ashleigh and Julia Nobis plus I am sure many others whose names I don't know, it's just so refreshing. (Clearly I am the proud owner of an important nose... Though I wasn't always so proud.)

    And love that he used kiko in a shoot for Vogue Italia - proof you don't need to spend big bucks to look like a million dollars. Or euros.

  • The Horticult

    Thank you, Overanalyzer! I have their oxblood tar -- their dedication to bold colors is exciting. I'll poke around for that lilac grey...

    • Amanda

      It's called Sebastian

      • The Horticult

        Thanks, Amanda!

  • Sophie Isabella D.

    Love that lipstick, but don't love the price tag; it beats Tom Ford by a mile!

Bioderma Créaline
Clarins Beauty Flash Balm
Clarins Lotus Face Treatment Oil
Avene Cicalfate Restorative Skin Cream
La Mer
La Mer ‘The Lip Balm’
MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Cream Intense Blue

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