Rodarte Spring 2014

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James Kaliardos (NARS): “The Mulleavys [Laura and Kate] were very inspired by the real rock-chic LA—not red carpet LA—since they grew up near there. We were trying to create this idea of a wild LA girl with Oural Brow Gel brushed-up brows that are quite hairy, like a wild animal. And we’re doing very precise eyeliner with more emphasis on the outer corner, like a “V,” to shape the eye using a swivel-up pencil— Via Veneto Larger Than Life Eyelinerand Black Valley Eye Paint. I'm trying to use the pencil more because it is a little more rock n’ roll-y, which is what we’re going for, but it really depends on the eye shape. If your lids hang over your eye, the eye pencil is better, but if your eyes pop out more, I would use a paint-on liner. And we put Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara on the lashes; to make the eye a little more graphic—kind of like a leopard—we used a dot of Radiant Creamy Concealer under the eye in a shade that's a touch paler than the model’s skin tone. It just lifts the eye and opens it up. On the rest of the skin, we used the new Radiant Cream Compact Foundation, which you can just put on and not even look at; it’s really great. And we did a creamy contour on the cheek with new Matte Multiples in Anguilla and Altai, which blend very smoothly and are very sheer. For the lips, we layered Biscayne Park Satin Lip Penciland Floralies Satin Lip Pencil. It’s about that real style that LA used to have—it was a look. The hair was a reference to the same thing, as if in real life the girl would have a big perm.”

Odile Gilbert (John Frieda): “The mood for the hair is love. It’s looking to the ‘80s, but made modern by being glamorous in the front, but only on one side. We put Frizz-Ease into the girls’ wet hair, and then Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse in the front to build up the volume. We blow-dried the hair using a brush and a lot of mousse, like women in the ‘80s would style their hair, did a deep side part, and made a wave in the front with a large-barrel curling iron. Then we tucked black and white zebra-printed extensions into the back of the hair, which were inspired by Rodarte’s tweed fabrics.”

Photographed by Emily Weiss backstage at Rodarte in New York on September 10, 2013.