Charlotte Tilbury (MAC): “The makeup has a whiff of the ’50s, but in a modern way. The focus is all on the bright, matte lips. The skin is perfected and the modern quality, I think, is that there are no eyebrows, there’s no blush, and there’s no mascara. There’s just a little bit of definition in the chocolate brown eyeliner used on the eyes. The flicked liner gives an old-school Marilyn Monroe beauty and lift to the eye, but doing it with the MAC Coffee Eye Pencil is a little more subtle and modern than a straight black. We made a defined, precise lip with a brush, using three different colors: an orange—MAC What a Blast Lip Pencil with MAC Orange Lipmix; a pink—Pinkie Lip Pencil; and a custom Lipmix. We didn’t put any mascara on the girls, but the fact is I’m never going to give up on mascara for myself. Going down the runway, it’s all about whatever is trendy and new. I’m sure the more conceptual, less girly, glamorous women will go for it. But the rest of us mere mortals will not be giving up on mascara.”
Paul Hanlon (OSiS): “The idea for the hair was that the women were kept in a box and have been let out for a minute for the world to see them, but they are so über-beautiful and creature-like that they have to go back into the box. So, we wanted the hair to look like the girls are covered in formaldehyde, or that someone poured wax over their heads. It’s a quite severe, a preserved glamour that looks like liquid, vinyl, PVC, or rubber. It doesn’t look like hair anymore. Prabal spoke about making the models’ hair like the hair you see in all the hair-product commercials—over retouched and quite fake. We prepped the hair to make it sleek and soft, parted it on the right side, and made it very, very flat with no volume, held down with OSiS Hair Spray at the roots. The shape of the hair follows the head shape, but is a little stranger. I used a flat iron on the ends to make them extra sleek. And I finished with the Sparkler to make it very shiny.”
Ana-Maria (Sally Hansen): "Prabal always says the nails are the period at the end of the sentence. He knew what he wanted going in. In this collection, there’s juxtaposition between matte and shiny. On one dress you might have a crepe matte here and an accent of satin. So, that’s what informed the nails. It’s a single color French manicure with a matte base, made with a matte topcoat, and a shiny tip. We created three looks specifically for the show, but some girls are wearing Lemon Shark, some the Brisk Blue, some the Mint Condition. We chose the color to complement the shade of their outfit."
Photographed by Emily Weiss at New York Fashion Week on September 7, 2013.