“It’s supposed to be a girl who's rolled in the grass and gotten flowers stuck in her hair,” hairstylist James Pecis said of the look he had created for Honor’s Spring 2014 show on Thursday (the first day of NYFW). The models’ hair had been volumized (with Phyto Phytovolume Actif Volumizing Spray), parted on the side, curled with a 1.25” curling iron, pulled back into an off-center low ponytail, and set with hairspray. The allure, however, was in the dozens of flower-accented bobby pins (an easy DIY) that captured the ease of music-festival hair—only the flower crowns had been replaced with a splash of micro buds, concentrated around the ear, and sprinkled into the ponytail. “Hair accessories can look cheesy, but it’s all in how you apply them,” explained Pecis. “We offset the balance with an asymmetrical cluster. The shape of the hair isn’t affected because we didn’t dig the bobby pins in—we just slipped them into the surface of the hair.”
Meanwhile at Rihanna costumer Adam Selman’s debut presentation, the focus was less on hair and more on eyes, specifically a jewel-toned, Studio 54-esque glitter eye, the shadow blurred out at the outer corner for added drama. “It’s elegant, glamorous, and a little bit shocking in a way that’s almost—dare I say it—punk,” makeup artist Aaron de Mey explained. “We wanted to make it feel like a behind-the-scenes photo shoot in the late ‘70s or early ‘80s, with a [Richard] Avedon kind of character. So, we made the models look like they’re a 'bad influence' with glitter on the eyes, a slightly glossy lip, and a soft peach cheek.” (Comedian Amy Sedaris, a film camera in hand and serious expression on her face, mingled with the real photographers and mimed taking photos á la Avedon.) The bright, exaggerated cat eyes were dolled out in one of three colors—violet, navy, or green—and ramped up with layers of texture. “Layering is the key here for creating shading and depth,” he added. “I used MAC’s cream sticks to get a shape going, and then MAC metallic powders to set the edges and add some 'luxe.' Then, I added the glitter with my fingertips on top, and kept the focus on the eyes.”
Honor and Adam Selman presentations photographed by Emily Weiss on September 5, 2013.