Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2013


Rudi Cremers (MAC): On the eyes, I'm using the Basic Black Paint Stick from MAC. For eyebrows, I always use eye shadow, which I apply with a thin, wet brush. For most skin, I prefer no foundation and then a little bit of concealer and corrector [from the Conceal and Correct Palette]. I used the Tailor Gray and Camel Coat Paint Pots [available in September] to make the shadow in the socket of the eyes, Stormy Pink for the cheeks, and I even mixed the Stormy Pink and Camel Coat with lip balm for the lips. We curled the lashes, but no mascara; I didn’t feel like mascara.... My inspiration was a young woman who has been 'outside'—she has been walking outside, she has been working outside, and she comes back into our world, and she’s not 'perfect' anymore. Her skin is a little bit red, the eye makeup is a little faded out. She has a little bit of a humid shine on her face, because she’s been in winter weather. The rain washed away her eye makeup, a little bit.

Eugene Souleiman: There are a lot of hats in the collection—they’re kind of pilgrim-esque—and the clothes are quite fluid; they move incredibly well. So I just said to Ann, “I think the hair should not move…. I think the hair should feel really heavy to kind of add a little more of a rawness, a dirtier kind of vibe, because everything else is very light and fluid.” I thought the hair should not look pure, it should look dirty and stuck, and not 'do' anything. To do this, I’m mixing gel with conditioner and applying it to bigger sections, not wisps, so the hair doesn’t bounce or fly away. It’s nasty hair! [Laughs] We’ve taken the prettiness out of it… With Ann, before the show, I go around to visit for a coffee, she plays me the music, and she shows me a book of the clothes with their heads cut off....and I just kind of get it—the essence of the show, rather than the details. And she just lets me go with it, which is what I love about her; she’s trusting. We’ve been working together for at least 12 years—a long, long time. It works particularly well for me because she’s like me, she’s a punk rocker. So, we get that.

Photographed by Emily Weiss at Espace Vendôme in Paris on February 28th, 2013.

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