Food For Thought


On the last day of Paris fashion week, which is really the last day of the four-city fashion month, everybody is trying to figure out what the takeaway will be. Maybe it boils down to three or four trends, tracked from New York to Paris. I like to look at the two final shows, though—Louis Vuitton (at 10 AM, to which, for two seasons, I’ve taken the bus and nearly missed each time) and Miu Miu—to see what’s cooking because it’s none other than the Beauty Dream Team, Pat McGrath and Guido, who crank out those last two hair and makeup ideas.

And on Oct 3rd, retro was in the air: a slightly naughty '60s girl (Vuitton) and a subversively sexy '50s girl (Miu Miu), both with a helluva lot of hairspray and a serious thing for a statement eye. Before hopping on a chauffeured scooter and saying au revoir to the shows, McGrath told me: “There’s been a lot going on with lines, and shapes, around the eye. At one point, the lips were about to take over, and then it went back to the eye.” And the Vuitton eye, not unlike the Chloé eye, triggered an immediate I WANT TO DO THAT reaction. The top lid was coated with a glossy peach “paint” that McGrath whipped up (but wouldn’t share the recipe for…at least for now), saying that Jacobs was “obsessed” with it, and the kicker was what she called a “baby cat eye”: black pencil under the eye only, flicked up and out at the edges into an almost imperceptible “3 mm” tick. “It’s just a hint of cat eye—it makes the girls look chic and cool at the same time,” she explained, and it’s so true… black liner on top, into a wing at the outer edge, is such a look. But a reverse cat eye? Has it ever been done??? I’m genuinely curious. Because it looked so new, and so cool, that I’m about to grab a mirror and do it now. At ten AM.

As for the gloss, this is another giant question mark and something I’m fascinated by, in terms of ‘runway to reality.’ A few hours after Vuitton, I was sitting next to Leigh Lezark at Miu Miu and we got to talking about makeup, as we tend to do, and she told me about the black, glossy smoky eye she did for Carine Roitfeld’s bal the night before. “Did you just rub some lipglass over your eye shadow?” I asked, because, hey, I’ve seen what goes on backstage sometimes. “No, I used that Chanel quad with the eye glosses that came out a few years ago. I knew it was limited-edition, so I hoarded them.” Well, lucky Leigh, but I’m wondering how I’m going to walk around with a homemade glossy lid and not feel like my eyes are fighting a losing battle with rubber cement. Also, doesn’t it move around? “Well, not if you use hair spray,” Leigh said.

“No, I'm not talking about your hair—your eye makeup,” I huffed.

“Yeah—hair spray. It’s an old trick. Sets your makeup.”


As for hair spray on your head, Guido must have gone through a crate of Redken that day, between the bow-tied bouffants at Vuitton and the combed-over, era-defying 'dos at Miu Miu, the latter of which called to mind two of my favorite pop-culture (or would they be indie? Alterna?) style icons: Yolandi, the epithet-spewing South African sprite in Die Antwoord, and Grimes. Microbangs and pseudo-mullets never looked so good with pink, elbow-length gloves, fur stoles and kitten heels. Actually, they’ve probably never been in the same room before…

So, food for thought… beauty look, 2013: a Home-Ec haircut, glossy lids, and eyeliner where you wouldn’t normally think to put it. Discuss.

—Emily Weiss

Let’s Talk About It! JOIN IN
  • Nomadic D.

    Hairspray over makeup? Terrifying. 3mm tic over peachy gloss lids? Genius.

  • Denis R

    Wow.. The photos are amazing, I like it. Great job.

  • Messamet serdane

    So nice report ! love the pictures !

  • dipitblack

    Lovely post!
    I prefer the clean, feminine look!


  • Joyce.

    Haha yes hairspray! Hmmm

    With Love,


  • Dianna

    I have to say I cannot begin to entertain the idea of hairspray on my face (because it will be all over face even though one aims at eyes) - so many nasty chemicals in it...

    I could never pull off the eyeliner over the top lid personally but/and can ONLY do the low lid lining with a tiny flick in the corner - it's so much easier and less omnipresent on the streets. With mascara on top lashes the effect is low-maintenance and it's also great with colorful eye pencils (I like black with green/gold sparkles in it and a perple one) ...

    The peachy glossy lid sounds like a dream - need the recipe!

  • ejb

    Yeahhh, still not ok to use the word tranny.

    • Gaufrette

      should be edited out. never ok.


    We manage to look chic and cool every time we roll out of bed. Not hard if you're born with "it."

  • Fairytalesandcoffee

    What I want to discuss is why hasn't Pat McGrath come out with her own cosmetic line - I would be so on line for that even if it were double the price of Tom Ford! I know she has/had her hand in Proctor and Gamble's cosmetic lines, D&G, Armani Beauty. Why has she not done her own thing?! And why doesn't she have her own reality show following her around on the job doing makeup. coming up with her inspirations? I WOULD WATCH THAT 24/7! If it were just one episode, I would loop it! :/

  • Lauren Ashley

    I have totally tried the hairspray on the face thing (a make-up artist spritzed me at a wedding) and I have to say, it completely works. More importantly, I'm really loving all the fresh eyeliner takes this season.

  • Lauren Ashley

    I have totally tried the hairspray on the face thing (a make-up artist spritzed me at a wedding) and I have to say, it completely works. More importantly, I'm really loving all the fresh eyeliner takes this season.

  • Diana

    Love it. Jotting down "do reverse cat eye" on tomorrow's to-do list as we speak

  • ROKderm

    Very the 60's! Love that look though, love the liner.

  • chantelle c

    I'm so going to appropriate the reverse cat eye. Woot woot!

  • ElizabethITG


  • Becca @ The Beauty Sample

    I've done a reverse cat-eye before...though my version didn't have as cool a name. I'm definitely going to dust off that look and give it another go--it's been a while. As for that glossy peachy eye? I'm INSANELY obsessed over that. I so wish a look like that would a.) last (there's no way, regardless of the amount of hairspray I use on it, that it will stay put on my super oily lids) and b.) would translate in real life

  • NatSeesStyle

    I am loving the "baby cat eye." It seems like such a wearable, everyday look, especially when paired with a soft lid shadow color. And such a fantastic recap- thanks for taking us backstage and behind the scenes of the Vuitton and Miu Miu shows!


  • Lindsay Sue

    I never ever looked good in eyeliner, until a few months ago. I started putting it just on my lower lid and va va voom it transformed my look. I got loads of compliments and it made me feel as if I looked very "sexy".

  • Mari M.

    I'm a ballerina, and we use Hairspray over makeup on all performs, it lasts so long that I'm addicted on using it in all parties! (:

  • amy g

    Hairspray over your make-up is an old trick I learnt in college here in Australia. Word of warning though: it is terrible for your skin, congests your pores and the alcohol in the hairspray dries your skin right out - oil cleansers are the best to counter this, and ramp up your moisturising for the next couple of days. Having said that though, it really does work, but perhaps keep it for special occasions (races, weddings, new year's etc) where you need your make up to last..

  • Dinner

    I've heard of hairspray over makeup. It's an old drag queen stand-by. I think it is also used in beauty pagents. I will never try it. It's too theatrical for me, also my skin will "freak out." I like the reverse cat eye. Audrey Hepburn used to do something like this except I think the top lid was lined too.

  • Annie in CA

    After reading this article a couple weeks ago, I got a bit obsessive about the reverse cat-eye and glossy lids. I love the liner just on the bottom--unique and cool, for sure. For the lids, though, I was stuck. I looked through every random palette I've ever bought, and couldn't find a matte peach shade of eye shadow anywhere. I tried mixing pink and brown--no. I then tried a coral blush, but that didn't work either.
    A week or so later, I was still thinking about those gorgeous peachy glossy lids, so I went to the mall and tried Sephora--with no luck (how is there no peach eye shadow in Sephora???). At the MAC counter at Nordstrom, I finally found a matte orange shade called "Rule." With a light hand, it almost looks a little peachy, so I went for it.
    At home, I primered my lids, swept on some Rule, then gently dabbed Smith's Rosebud Salve on top. Not bad! It is still a little too orange-y, maybe mixing it with white shadow would work? I will have to keep experimenting...but that in itself is fun! And I guess it doesn't have to be peach--this look is unique because of the glossiness, not the actual shadow color. But the rosebud salve worked wonders for that. It's definitely something you're going to have to touch up, but gives a nice gloss without being completely sticky and gross.
    I would definitely love to see the "recipe", though!! :)

  • Sue

    Man, ITG, you guys are the best. I've been trying to figure out this eye for months. I thought Pat McGrath had lined the upper eyelid's waterline and made a subtle flick when she pulled out. Now I know she approached from the bottom lashline only...brilliant.