Diane Kendal (MAC): We’re doing a really simple, fresh look today, that’s all about a graphic eye. We’re using Smoked Paprika grease [from the Fall Trend Eye Palette] on the upper eyelid, brushing it on in a kind of rectangular shape [Ed. note: we recommend a flat synthetic brush for creamy eye shadows] and then adding the powder Pigment in Copper Sparkle on top. We’re leaving the face very fresh, just using moisturizer and concealer to even out the skin tone, and brushing the brows up with a clean mascara wand. I would say this is a little bit more of an evening look, because it is quite dramatic, without being heavy. In the collection, there was a nod to the sixties, and this shape we’re creating with the color—the way it sort of kicks out at the edge—gives you a bit of that feel, but in a really modern, fresh way. This season at the shows, I’ve either been doing a really sculpted look, sculpting the cheekbones and pumping up the eyebrows—a really sort of sculpted face—or, it’s been about keeping the girls really raw and fresh with cream makeup and grease. I’ve been using a lot of grease paints this season, just to create this shadowy effect around the eyes. And for eye color, I’ve been using a lot of coppers, browns, red-y browns—in that family. I haven’t used much grey or black. I think it’s nice to have that warmth to the face, especially for spring.
Guido (Redken): The hair is a bit sixties, and a bit boyish. We’re doing a deep side part, and I’m using Powder Refresh 01 and Wax Blast 10 to create texture in the hair, but like a natural texture, and pulling it all back into a loose, looped pony. I’m personalizing it a bit by pulling out their little sideburns—you know, the soft bits around the ears—and then just finishing the whole look with a little Fashion Work 12 spray. So, it’s simple...it’s really about having these little nuances to create the character.
By the way, remember Sid? Diane's right-hand-woman demonstrated, well, with her right hand [photo 9, 10], how the copper pigment goes on (because obviously we'll be trying this makeup look at home). But on both her hands was Nailstation Paris’ Charlotte metallic nail polish, which coincidentally matched the models' eyelids. A good alternative to Chanel Peridot (now going for $43.40 on Amazon), we thought.
Photographed by Emily Weiss at the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris on October 1, 2012.