Paul Hanlon (Frederic Fekkai): It's the Proenza girl. The girl who every girl wants to be-- as opposed to the whole reality television star, 'voluminous' thing. If I had a daughter I wouldn't want her looking up to that. I would want her to be looking up to the Proenza girl. I've been working with Jack and Lazaro for five years, and each season it's the same girl, but with a different twist. We had over ten hours of hair tests for the look: it's very separated, dirty, day-old hair. Kurt Cobain hair. We made a mark in the head, almost like if a girl had wet hair and tied a scarf around it, and then took it out later, when her hair was dry... or in the morning when you go to work with wet hair and you put your jacket over it. It's subtle, but I think it's quite true to the Proenza Schouler woman, the feeling of life in the hair. The girls who have thicker hair have a braid across the undersides of their heads so everyone gets that really thin separated look. We used Perfectly Luscious Curls Wave Activating Spray after, so it's a little bit dreadlock-y, a little disjointed—maybe she slept somewhere and just got up. This girl doesn't carry a brush around with her, she's confident in the way that she looks, she doesn't really care about the rest. I like the tension this hair gives, worn with the clothes, which are so incredibly luxurious and expensive. She's that American girl you see on the street who has a little bit of danger to her—she's not just sweet.
Diane Kendal (MAC): The makeup is really very light. I just used a light coverage foundation [Studio Finish concealer], then the Eye Pencil in Coffee, just in the crease of the eye and a little line underneath, blended with a brush. It's harder underneath and then very soft up above. I used the [yet-to-be-released] Mineralized Glamour Era Lipstick on the cheeks, because it's quite sheer and has just a hint of color and still has that sheen to it. The eyebrows, we put wax in them and then brushed them and feathered them up with the Powder Eyeshadow. The eyebrows were just my interpretation of what they wanted. They just wanted her to look 'cool.'
—as told to ITG
Photographed by Emily Weiss at 5 Beekman Street in New York on September 12th, 2012.