Rochas Fall 2012

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Lucia Pieroni (Clé de Peau): The makeup inspiration is nature—Marco (Zanini) was inspired by Scandinavian pottery, so all the prints that you see are from this incredible pottery. So for makeup we’re going along those lines—we’re going for an earthier girl, a more ‘nature’ girl, but not too raw. So we’re doing really creamy skin, a little bit satin-y , and then a really gorgeous, really strong blackberry lip—a new Clé de Peau lipstick coming out in the fall, called R10—and we’re making it very matted-out; it’s quite ‘stamped on’ in a modern kind of way. And then two eye shadows that are also new for fall: 118 and 116, a shimmery champagne and burgundy. I’m mixing them both together and doing a sort of ‘blown out’ smoky eye, so there are no edges to it—it’s very soft-focus. No liner, no mascara, so it’s kind of like shading the eye. To me, that has a real beauty because you get to see people’s lids, which you don’t usually see because when you have loads of mascara or liner on, and the lid disappears. Here, you get this really beautiful wide, oval shape.

Eugene Souleiman: She’s a classy, rich, kind of artisanal lady, you know? There’s lots of layers to this hair, without being really pretentious. What we’ve done is just given them a really beautiful blow-dry, and then it’s gathered into a loose ponytail, so the hair feels like it’s almost a haircut, like a bob, and then teasing the back…so it’s really this really rich look but it’s not vulgar or ostentatious. It’s kind of understated with an idea—because there’s this severity to the hair going straight back—and then this opulence with it coming out a bit at the sides. It’s very chic—but not chic in a Parisian way, more chic in a Nordic way. For the top, to make it slick, we’re slapping on mousse—literally—and just combing it through. Mousse isn’t just for volume; sometimes you can use the wrong product to get the right result. The collection is very inspired by pottery, so we found these amazing cinnamon stick barrettes in the Marais for, like, fifty cents a piece. We bought every one of them—there’s no more. They kind of reminded me of pottery, and you’re not really sure what you’re looking at—it could be a cinnamon stick, it could be a twig.

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