Diane Kendal (MAC): We’re doing the typical Proenza girl—very cool—so we’re just moisturizing the face, evening out the skin as needed, adding brown greasepaint (Richly Honed Pro Sculpting Cream, available Fall 2012) around the eye, brushing the eyebrows and that’s it. Nothing else. The hair’s really natural, just being washed and left, so Jack and Lazaro really wanted the girls’ individuality to come through. There’s this one girl, Melissa*, an Argentinian girl, who's got a really heavy fringe and sort of feathered hair, she was kind of the muse for how they wanted the girls to look. She came in for the fitting and they said, ‘We just want the girls to look like that.’
Paul Hanlon (Fekkai): For me, today, it’s really about each girl’s individual beauty. It’s not about a ‘look’ today. It’s all about purity. When I spoke to Jack and Lazaro, they felt like all week, all the girls have their hair and makeup done, and it’s almost like we just wanted to wash it all away. The casting's amazing—they’ve got these brand new girls—and we’ve colored a lot of their hair quite dark, at the Fekkai salon. The first ten looks of the show are all white, quite Japanese inspired, and the boys liked the idea of these really white clothes with really dark hair. The clothes are quite inspired by Martial Arts—and when you think of Japan, you think of this kind of perfection, this kind of laundered feeling. So with the girls, we’re stripping it all back to the basics. We’re literally washing every girl’s hair with the Apple Cider Clarifying Shampoo, in that mini bathroom over there [laughs], and then, even though I’m saying it’s pure, I am putting a little bit of product in because as you know, if you leave your hair to dry naturally it goes a bit flyaway and out of control. So we are using a little bit of Fekkai Anti-Frizz Silkening cream, and this really acts as a leave-in conditioner, just to weigh the hair down. Not a lot—like the size of a quarter, from mid-lengths to ends, combing it through, so it gets distributed through the hair really nice. And then just letting the girls’ hair naturally fall, in their natural part—so some are on the side, some are in the middle—as it is. Tucking it behind the hairs, so you get that beautiful little mark, like Bardot used to do a lot, and then at the nape, twisting it all together and applying a bit of the Tousled Wave Spray, again just at the mid-lengths and ends, so that when it dries, it dries quite languid and skinny. So I suppose in a way, people think that hair has to be full and beautiful, but it’s almost the opposite today. When they put on their jackets and their hair gets kind of tucked in or caught, it really feels like a moment—like they’ve just walked in off the street in these amazing clothes. She’s not wearing any makeup and she hasn’t got her hair done, and it really is about raw, natural beauty. And for the girls who have a lot of hair, without many layers, sometimes we’re braiding up a third of the hair underneath, to thin it out and make it more like a cool girl…a Kate Moss vibe, a little bit Patti Smith also, with that dark hair and the bangs and all that.
*Melissa Stasuik, pictured at top and bottom, is a twenty-year-old skateboarder from Buenos Aires. She walked in Chanel’s pre-fall show and appears in the current issue of LOVE, shot by Mario Testino. I would have asked her all about her inspirational ‘do, her leather brogues, her rumpled bow-tie, and the "fuck" tattoo on her hand, but I don’t speak Spanish.