Derek Lam Fall 2012


Tom Pecheux (Estée Lauder): I’m doing a very soft veil of foundation because I want the girls to look fresh—I just created this new foundation at Estée called Invisible [Fluid Makeup, launching in March], because it is kind of invisible. The more you put foundation, the more you need powder, so if you do a thick foundation, then you need a lot of powder, especially if you want to mattify the whole thing, and that creates a very heavy finish—I don’t want that. I’m just using a thin layer of powder over it, grooming the eyebrows, and doing kind of a smoky, burgundy eye with a palette coming out in the fall—very gentle, nothing aggressive—with black mascara on the top, brown mascara on the bottom, and a touch of white eye shadow to highlight the arch of the brow. For me, she’s kind of a naughty student, a very proper, naughty student, so we’re drawing the lashes under, and adding some lovely, healthy blush. I’m mixing two lipsticks—Crystal Pink and Vanilla Truffle, and then I’m dusting a bit of white eye shadow on top to mattify it—that’s a great trick. You just dab it on the center of the lips with a brush. She’s a very proper girl, but she’s a bit off...a little twisted. [Laughs] In French we say, ‘Un peu décalé’.

Orlando Pita (Phyto): She’s a girl that attends an all-girl college, she’s a bit of an intellectual, she’s a little eccentric, a little twisted—but undone, in a modern way. It’s a bit 60’s. Sometimes we have the hair tucked up and sometimes, especially for evening, it’s hanging down in the back. So, we blow-dry the hair first using the volumizing mousse by Phyto, using the T3 Evolution Dryer, and then we put the Workable Holding Spray by Phyto as well, all over the hair, to get really good texture, and then we’re wrapping it around the T3 Whirl—it’s this wand that doesn’t have the clamp on it, so it’s really easy to use—just to get some movement in the hair, not so much to get a curl. We use some Fiber Paste from Phyto to make it a little bit piece-y, and then we start teasing it—all at the root—and then sort of placing it around the face, but that’s going to happen after makeup, because they have to do their job too. [Laughs]

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  • Bonnie,Clyde and Marni
  • Kinga

    her bottom lashes are SPECTACULAR!

  • Anonymous

    I love the very specific image created in each stylists mind that shapes what they want their girls to look like.
    I really dig the makeup on them - It's a soft focus, flawless face that has a smidge of sultriness, in my opinion. Gorgeous.

  • Messamet serdane

    Tom Pecheux's work is always awesome !

  • Material Fixations

    Love how they creat characters as inspiration for the looks. The make up does look amazingly simple and light and a little off.

  • Joy Of Stranger Sensibilities

    I go to Smith so I guess this is all tailored for me HA. I love how each backstage makeup show is all about making the girls look I suppose we can all look fresh in so many different ways.

  • Gauri

    These shades are perfect for me...the lipstick is so wow...

  • Mrs Singh

    "Un peau decale~" I have to remember that one. I love the trick of mattifying the lips with white eyeshadow. The girls have a very proper but sexy air about them. Keep it coming, Emily! Amazing posts!

  • Clare @ The Blossom Shed

    I love this hair, and am going to have to try out the new Estee Lauder fluid now too, bc the skin looks gorgeous:)

    The Blossom Shed - scent, style, skin.

  • Daphne

    I always have a hard time with my bottom lashes, I have very fair skin with red hair, and therefore red lashes that are invisible without mascara. I look great with mascara on top lashes, but can't seem to find the right way to rock it on bottom lashes. This brown mascara trick could work, must give it a try! And as for the lipstick, I learned from Lisa Eldridge to mattify lipstick by putting on powder on the lips through one "layer" of a tissue. Works wonders!

    Dee & Duke | Inspiration for Everyday Life

  • Raphaëlle Lavielle

    The hairdos are just stunning.

  • lipnstick

    Great tip to put the eyeshadow over the lipstick to matify!!!

    Always enjoy theseposts sooo much!! Great great blog!

  • Kitchen afternoon

    Big hair is wonderful- such a burst of glamour!

  • Madison

    That hair is great!!!


  • Jennohl
  • Highheels Nothingtowear

    Really cool hair! XO Dianne

  • PopCosmo

    Love it "undone-- in a modern way". Absolutely gorgeous!

  • Trishelle

    Phyto must be a good product!

  • Ashley

    Amazing blog! I love hearing about how much thought and imagination goes into the look each step of the way. Gonna try that eyeshadow lip trick ;)

  • Fashion-times

    Beautiful- def going to get those cute hair ties!