Proenza Schouler Spring 2012


Paul Hanlon (Fekkai): The hair’s got a bit of a continuation from last season, I suppose, as far as texture goes. There’s actually an intern who works with Jack and Lazaro, a very pretty girl with dreadlock-y hair, and the boys kept saying, “Look at this girl, we really like her hair”—she felt like a Proenza girl, because it was easy and cool and kind of gathered into this knot in the back. The hair is also inspired by Elvis a little bit, quite 50’s—that’s a very strong reference for the boys this time. There’s a lot going on with the clothes—it’s beautiful, there’s a lot of texture, there’s lots and lots of colors. But when I think of 50’s hair, you have to be careful because it can start to look like a theater show, like Grease or something…too referential or retro, which is not what I want. The boys kept showing these beautiful pictures of Elvis, with a comb in his hair, and these Avedon pictures of women in the wild wild west with really amazing wild hair. We’re using three Fekkai products—the Wave Spray, to make the hair very dry, very matte, that kind of sea texture…but we’re using it very excessively so that the hair becomes almost fabric-like, quite dreadlock-y, in a way. And then we’re using the Piecing & Forming Wax, wiping through the hairline and then using a hairdryer to melt the wax and liquefy it, and going through the front with a barber comb. So you’ve got these two textures: wet, kind of greasy hair, and then getting very dry and tumbled toward the ends. But it’s important that the proportions are kind of “wrong,” so maybe one side is kind of loose and the other side’s back. And then we’re using the Sheer Hold Hairspray, which a very strong hairspray and very shiny as well, just to fix everything in place.

Diane Kendal (MAC): I’m just doing really bold faces—foundation, a little bit of beige underneath the temples, a soft hue to the cheeks, and then very strong eyebrows filled in with shadow—quite squarish and boyish, and that’s it. No eyes, mascara, or anything. I always think it’s a modern woman who doesn’t wear too much makeup. I mean, that’s their girl isn’t it? A woman who can throw on a really fantastic outfit, and just leave their face kind of bare.

Nails were a custom color blended for the show, “Pollen”, by Perfect Formula. Available in February.


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  • Denise

    One of my favorite shows! I loved the make up, thank you for sharing Emily! PS. Will you be attending Paris fashion week?

  • Lucianne

    Loving fashion week because you're posting every day :) ...if only it could be like this every week (sigh)
    The colors of the Proenza spring collection are fabulous!
    Thanks Emily

  • David

    I love that you're doing a post on Proenza Schouler! They're my favorite! & The photos are beautiful! :D

    Have a Good Day!


  • Ashley

    These are beautiful photos, the make-up is amazing - and the nails too! This was definitely one show I couldn't take my eyes off.

    The I on Fashion

  • Marcela

    Great post, love the yellow nail polish and all the tips.
    I love it all

  • Rachel Elizabeth

    ~loving that polish

  • Gemma

    Those yellow nails are incredible!

  • Priscilla Francine Makeup

    This post makes me feel like I don't have enough brushes...


  • Toni

    I like the make-up and the idea behind it :)